I think that sewing your own sewing kit by hand is a beautiful pilgrimage. It’s an opportunity to slow down and tame a slow but steady rhythm, while developing your hand-sewing skills.
This tutorial is simple and will allow you to learn :
how to make a lined product,
how to sew a zipper,
and will help you practice the three basic hand-sewing stitches: the running stitch, the backstitch, and the invisible stitch.
In addition, by using upcycledmaterials, you explore an alternative, creative and sustainable approach to your wardrobe while lower your carbon footprint. Take your time, enjoy the process, let yourself be surprised by your own creativity and create a sewing pouch as unique as you are! You can do it and I am here to guide you every step of the way! Nevertheless, I rather warn you that sewing pouches can be quite addictive:)
For the main fabric, I welcome you to use denim scraps or any other fabric you have on hand. I’m using a rather think 100% cotton denim. If you use any other fabric you have on hand, make sure it’s a sturdy woven fabric with no stretch.
Lining fabric
For the lining, I’m using simple cotton voile. If you have some old pillowcases, it can be a great idea to use them for lining. It’s also fun to use printed fabric for the lining, but I didn’t have any on hand.
A zipper
I’m using YKK zipper, which I buy online from this lovely company called Zipperloft. I’ve chosen size 4.5 metal zippers that are 6 inches long. You could choose vislon zippers of varying widths according to your preference. My pattern is made for a 6-inch-long zipper. If you want to make a larger pouch, you’ll need to adjust the length of the zipper.
Sewing scissor
I suggest cutting your fabric with sewing scissors. If you don’t have any, rather then cutting with kitchen scissors….which won’t be a fluid experience, I suggest using an X-Acto knife. It cuts very well and it will save you the trouble to trace the pattern onto the fabric.
Thread and needle
To sew by hand, especially on a thick fabric, I suggest choosing a rather sturdy and long needle. As for the thread, an all-purpose sewing thread should do the trick without any problems. However, when I sew by hand, I tend to prefer using a slightly thicker thread. The thread that I like using is a Tex 40, 100% organic cotton. That thread is quite a treat…my type of treat:) I buy it online from Organic cotton plus.
Kinsu sewing pattern
You can download the pdf sewing pattern by clicking the button.
Non-essential materials that will ease your process
Twill tape 1inch wide
I use it to finish the tip of my zipper. But if you don’t have any you can use the shell or lining fabric.
Thread snips - More practical than sewing scissors for cutting thread
Pins – To keep your fabric in place when sewing
Seam creaser - To help turn the corners of your pouch nicely.
If you wish to topstitch
A slightly thicker thread will be necessary. If you don’t have any, you can use embroidery thread, or you can also double up a regular multi-purpose thread. The thread I am using here is Sashiko embroidery thread, 100% cotton. I love this thread and I buy it here.
CUTTING
The best is to upcycle denim scraps for your old pair of jeans you have been turning into shorts last summer!
You can cut the pattern directly on the jeans leg, but if you want to maximize the surface of the fabric and use the beautiful contrasts in the seams, I invite you to unpick the thread and press the fabric before cutting the pattern.
The arrow on the pattern indicates the direction of the grain line of the fabric. The grain line of the fabric is generally from top to bottom and bottom to top of the garment. When you cut the fabric, you want to position the pattern respecting the grain of the fabric. As we are making a small pouch and not a suit, it is not so important to respect the cutting in the grain line of the fabric and therefore, if your jeans are too narrow to fit the pattern simply turn the pattern the other way.
You must cut: 2 pieces of shell fabric
2 pieces of lining fabric
2 pieces of twill tape
SEWING STEPS
PREP THE ZIPPER
Fold 1 cm (5/8 inches) seam allowance inwards at each end of the two tip of twill tape and press flat.
Fold the twill tape in half, and fold over the end of the zipper. Then pin it.
Sew it down using a backstitch at 2mm (1/8 inches) from the edge
SEWING THE ZIPPER
Using the notches as a guide, place the right side of the zipper on the right side of the right side of the fabric. Then place the right side of the lining on the wrong side of the zipper.
Repeat this step on the other side.
Open the pouch in order to have the denim on the lining and press open.
TOPSTITCH
Topstitching has a decorative and functional purpose. It keeps the shell and lining flat so that they don’t get caught in the zipper.
Sew the topstitch flat using a running stitch or any decorative stitch you might like. For this step use a thicker thread, topstitching thread, or embroidery thread.
Topstitch on both side of the zipper.
OPEN THE ZIPPER
Probably the simplest steps of all in this sewing tutorial, but also the easiest to forget. Yet this step is super important. If it is not done, it will be impossible to turn the pouch right side out after assembling it.
SEWING THE POUCH
Place the right side of the fabric on the right side of the lining and pin all around, leaving an opening of about 7 cm in the lining.
Start sewing all around from the first pin the second one. Sew 1cm (5/8inches) from the edge of the fabric using a running stitch.
When you reach the corner, use a backstitch for few stitches and make one stitch on the bias reaching the very corner.
In the thickness of the zipper, it is important to send the seam allowances towards the lining. I also use a backstitch for 2cm or 1 inch in the thickness of the zipper.
When you have sewn all around up to the second pin, make a knot and cut the thread, making sure you have left a 7 cm (3 inches) opening in the lining.
REDUCE SEAM ALLOWANCE AT THE CORNERS
In order to have a beautiful corner, it is preferable to reduce the seam allowance by cutting 0.5 cm (¼ inch) around the corner. Do not cut too close to the seam.
TURN THE POUCH RIGHT SIDE OUT
Turn the pouch right side out through the opening in the lining. If you have a seam creaser, this is the time to use it to tur the corners beautifully.
CLOSE THE LINING
Fold the seam allowances inward and press with an iron.
Press the pouch and it’s ready to be use:)
If you wonder which sewing tools you should have in your sewing pouch head over to this post:)
I think that sewing your own sewing kit by hand is a beautiful pilgrimage. It’s an opportunity to slow down and tame a slow but steady rhythm, while developing your hand-sewing skills.
This tutorial is simple and will allow you to learn :
In addition, by using upcycledmaterials, you explore an alternative, creative and sustainable approach to your wardrobe while lower your carbon footprint. Take your time, enjoy the process, let yourself be surprised by your own creativity and create a sewing pouch as unique as you are! You can do it and I am here to guide you every step of the way! Nevertheless, I rather warn you that sewing pouches can be quite addictive:)
FLOWER TUTORIAL VIDEO
If you don’t feel like reading, watch the video:)
SEWING TOOLS YOU NEED
The essentials:
Shell fabric
For the main fabric, I welcome you to use denim scraps or any other fabric you have on hand. I’m using a rather think 100% cotton denim. If you use any other fabric you have on hand, make sure it’s a sturdy woven fabric with no stretch.
Lining fabric
For the lining, I’m using simple cotton voile. If you have some old pillowcases, it can be a great idea to use them for lining. It’s also fun to use printed fabric for the lining, but I didn’t have any on hand.
A zipper
I’m using YKK zipper, which I buy online from this lovely company called Zipperloft. I’ve chosen size 4.5 metal zippers that are 6 inches long. You could choose vislon zippers of varying widths according to your preference. My pattern is made for a 6-inch-long zipper. If you want to make a larger pouch, you’ll need to adjust the length of the zipper.
Sewing scissor
I suggest cutting your fabric with sewing scissors. If you don’t have any, rather then cutting with kitchen scissors….which won’t be a fluid experience, I suggest using an X-Acto knife. It cuts very well and it will save you the trouble to trace the pattern onto the fabric.
Thread and needle
To sew by hand, especially on a thick fabric, I suggest choosing a rather sturdy and long needle. As for the thread, an all-purpose sewing thread should do the trick without any problems. However, when I sew by hand, I tend to prefer using a slightly thicker thread. The thread that I like using is a Tex 40, 100% organic cotton. That thread is quite a treat…my type of treat:) I buy it online from Organic cotton plus.
Kinsu sewing pattern
You can download the pdf sewing pattern by clicking the button.
Non-essential materials that will ease your process
Twill tape 1inch wide
I use it to finish the tip of my zipper. But if you don’t have any you can use the shell or lining fabric.
If you wish to topstitch
A slightly thicker thread will be necessary. If you don’t have any, you can use embroidery thread, or you can also double up a regular multi-purpose thread. The thread I am using here is Sashiko embroidery thread, 100% cotton. I love this thread and I buy it here.
CUTTING
The best is to upcycle denim scraps for your old pair of jeans you have been turning into shorts last summer!
You can cut the pattern directly on the jeans leg, but if you want to maximize the surface of the fabric and use the beautiful contrasts in the seams, I invite you to unpick the thread and press the fabric before cutting the pattern.
The arrow on the pattern indicates the direction of the grain line of the fabric. The grain line of the fabric is generally from top to bottom and bottom to top of the garment. When you cut the fabric, you want to position the pattern respecting the grain of the fabric. As we are making a small pouch and not a suit, it is not so important to respect the cutting in the grain line of the fabric and therefore, if your jeans are too narrow to fit the pattern simply turn the pattern the other way.
You must cut: 2 pieces of shell fabric
2 pieces of lining fabric
2 pieces of twill tape
SEWING STEPS
PREP THE ZIPPER
Fold 1 cm (5/8 inches) seam allowance inwards at each end of the two tip of twill tape and press flat.
Fold the twill tape in half, and fold over the end of the zipper. Then pin it.
Sew it down using a backstitch at 2mm (1/8 inches) from the edge
SEWING THE ZIPPER
Using the notches as a guide, place the right side of the zipper on the right side of the right side of the fabric. Then place the right side of the lining on the wrong side of the zipper.
Repeat this step on the other side.
Open the pouch in order to have the denim on the lining and press open.
TOPSTITCH
Topstitching has a decorative and functional purpose. It keeps the shell and lining flat so that they don’t get caught in the zipper.
Sew the topstitch flat using a running stitch or any decorative stitch you might like. For this step use a thicker thread, topstitching thread, or embroidery thread.
Topstitch on both side of the zipper.
OPEN THE ZIPPER
Probably the simplest steps of all in this sewing tutorial, but also the easiest to forget. Yet this step is super important. If it is not done, it will be impossible to turn the pouch right side out after assembling it.
SEWING THE POUCH
Place the right side of the fabric on the right side of the lining and pin all around, leaving an opening of about 7 cm in the lining.
Start sewing all around from the first pin the second one. Sew 1cm (5/8inches) from the edge of the fabric using a running stitch.
When you reach the corner, use a backstitch for few stitches and make one stitch on the bias reaching the very corner.
In the thickness of the zipper, it is important to send the seam allowances towards the lining. I also use a backstitch for 2cm or 1 inch in the thickness of the zipper.
When you have sewn all around up to the second pin, make a knot and cut the thread, making sure you have left a 7 cm (3 inches) opening in the lining.
REDUCE SEAM ALLOWANCE AT THE CORNERS
In order to have a beautiful corner, it is preferable to reduce the seam allowance by cutting 0.5 cm (¼ inch) around the corner. Do not cut too close to the seam.
TURN THE POUCH RIGHT SIDE OUT
Turn the pouch right side out through the opening in the lining. If you have a seam creaser, this is the time to use it to tur the corners beautifully.
CLOSE THE LINING
Fold the seam allowances inward and press with an iron.
Press the pouch and it’s ready to be use:)
If you wonder which sewing tools you should have in your sewing pouch head over to this post:)
POUCHES OBSESSION
An embroidered pouch for my embroidery tools
A pearled pouch for all my pearls and beads
A button up pouch for all my vintage buttons
Pouch party in the studio...
I just love seing what you been crafting. Tag me on insta @kinsu_atelier or join the FBK group denimupcycler